Your Achill Island guide: Keem Bay and other beaches, the Atlantic Drive, Croaghaun cliffs, the Deserted Village and where to stay.
Discovering Achill's Coastal Charms
My first encounter with Achill Island, off the coast of County Mayo, Ireland, was a revelation. I had heard whispers of its wild beauty, its untamed landscapes, and its sheer remoteness, but nothing truly prepared me for the visceral experience of standing on its shores, the Atlantic wind whipping my hair, and the vast expanse of ocean stretching out before me.
It’s a place that instantly captivates, a sanctuary where the modern world seems to fade, replaced by the raw power of nature and a profound sense of peace. From the moment I crossed the famous Michael Davitt Bridge, the mainland gradually receding behind me, I felt a distinct shift, a shedding of the everyday, replaced by an eagerness to immerse myself in this unique island.
My journey to Achill was driven by a desire to reconnect with nature, to challenge myself with invigorating walks, and to simply be present in a landscape that has inspired poets, artists, and dreamers for centuries. This article is a reflection of my personal exploration, my discoveries, and the indelible memories I made on this magnificent island, focusing on its stunning beaches, its myriad walking opportunities, and the diverse array of places I found to rest my head after a day of adventure.
If you're planning a visit to Achill Island and are interested in exploring more of the stunning landscapes in the region, you might want to check out an article about hiking in the nearby Nephin mountain range. The article titled "Conquering Nephin: A Walk to the Summit" provides detailed insights into the trails and breathtaking views you can experience while hiking Nephin. You can read it here: Conquering Nephin: A Walk to the Summit. This could be a perfect addition to your itinerary, complementing your time spent on the beautiful beaches and scenic walks of Achill Island.
The Allure of Achill's Beaches
For me, the beaches of Achill are not just stretches of sand; they are vibrant, breathing entities, each with its own character and story. I found myself drawn to them repeatedly, whether for a bracing swim, a contemplative walk, or simply to sit and watch the waves crash.
Keem Bay: A Secluded Gem
Keem Bay, nestled between steep hillsides on Achill's westernmost tip, instantly became one of my favourite spots, and for good reason. The drive there is an experience in itself, winding along a narrow road that hugs the cliff edge, offering increasingly breathtaking views. As I rounded the final bend, the sight of the horseshoe-shaped bay with its impossibly turquoise waters and golden sand took my breath away.
It felt like stumbling upon a secret paradise. The water here is crystal clear, and on a calm day, it’s an ideal spot for swimming and snorkelling. I spent an entire afternoon simply floating in its gentle embrace, gazing up at the surrounding cliffs. The sense of isolation and tranquility here is profound, largely due to its somewhat remote location.
There are no bustling shops or noisy cafes, just a small car park and the pristine beach. I packed a picnic lunch and revelled in the quiet, punctuated only by the cries of seabirds and the gentle lapping of waves. It’s a Blue Flag beach, a testament to its exceptional water quality and environmental management, and I could certainly see why.
The steep hillsides around the bay also offer fantastic opportunities for short, invigorating climbs, providing even more spectacular panoramic views back over the bay and the wild Atlantic beyond.
Keel Beach: A Hub of Activity
In stark contrast to Keem's seclusion, Keel Beach, or Trawmore Strand, is a vibrant expanse of sand that pulses with a different kind of energy. This is where I found more life, more activity, and a greater sense of community. Stretching for several kilometres, it’s a magnificent Blue Flag beach, famous not only for its stunning beauty but also for its excellent surfing conditions.
Watching the surfers ride the Atlantic waves, their silhouettes against the dramatic backdrop of the Slievemore mountain, was mesmerising. I even mustered the courage to try a beginner's surfing lesson here, and while I wasn't exactly catching big waves, the exhilaration of even briefly standing on the board was unforgettable. Beyond surfing, I saw people kayaking, paddleboarding, and even blokarting across the vast sandy flats at low tide.
The beach is backed by a small village, offering cafes, shops, and a few surf schools, making it a very convenient and popular spot. I loved the dynamic atmosphere, the blend of serious water sports enthusiasts and families simply enjoying a day by the sea. The large sandy area is perfect for long, reflective walks, and I often found myself strolling along the shoreline, collecting shells and feeling the invigorating sea breeze.
Dooagh Beach: The Vanishing and Returning Sands
Dooagh Beach holds a unique place in my memory, not just for its beauty, but for its incredible story. For over 30 years, from 1984 until 2017, the beach completely disappeared, replaced by bare rocks, a geological anomaly attributed to changes in tide and currents. Then, in 2017, almost overnight, the sand returned, creating a beautiful sandy cove once more.
Witnessing this natural phenomenon, even after the fact, filled me with a sense of wonder at the power and unpredictability of nature. When I visited, it was a peaceful, sheltered beach, perfect for a quiet stroll. The story of its disappearance and reappearance adds an extra layer of intrigue to its charm. It's a smaller beach than Keel or Keem, more intimate, and often less crowded, which I appreciated.
The village of Dooagh itself is charming, with its colourful houses and traditional feel, offering a glimpse into local island life. I spent some time here simply sitting on the sand, contemplating the extraordinary geological events that shaped this particular stretch of coastline.
Golden Strand, Dugort: East Coast Tranquility
Venturing to the eastern side of Achill, I discovered Golden Strand at Dugort. This beach offers a different perspective of the island, facing inward towards the mainland rather than directly out to the vast Atlantic. Consequently, the waters here are often calmer and more sheltered, making it ideal for families with young children or anyone seeking a gentler swimming experience.
The sand here truly lives up to its name, a beautiful golden hue that glows under the sun. I enjoyed a peaceful walk along its length, taking in the views of Blacksod Bay and the distant mountains. It felt like a hidden sanctuary, a tranquil escape from the more dramatic, windswept beaches further west. The village of Dugort has a rich history, being the site of the first Protestant mission in Ireland, and I enjoyed exploring some of the old buildings and learning about its past.
The calm waters of Golden Strand made it perfect for a leisurely dip, and I found it to be a wonderful spot for quiet contemplation, away from the more bustling parts of the island.
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Walking the Wild Paths of Achill
Achill Island is a hiker's paradise, and I dedicated a significant portion of my trip to exploring its diverse network of walking trails. From gentle coastal paths to challenging mountain climbs, there's a route for every level of fitness and ambition. The sheer scale and untouched beauty of the landscape truly come alive when explored on foot.
The Achill Greenway: A Cycling and Walking Haven
My first major walking endeavour was a section of the Great Western Greenway, specifically the part that traverses Achill. This disused railway line has been transformed into a magnificent off-road cycling and walking trail, offering safe and scenic passage through some of the island's most beautiful areas. I opted to walk from Mulranny to Achill Sound, a relatively flat and easy stretch that allowed me to soak in the coastal views without too much strenuous effort.
The path winds alongside the sparkling waters of Clew Bay, with its countless islands, and meanders through peaceful countryside. I loved the sense of freedom it offered, being able to walk for miles without encountering any traffic. The old railway bridges and stations add a charming historical element to the route. It's an excellent choice for a leisurely day out, providing opportunities to stop for photos, enjoy a picnic, or simply breathe in the fresh sea air.
For those who prefer cycling, there are plenty of rental shops along the route, making it an accessible adventure for all.
Slievemore Mountain: A Challenging Ascent
For a more challenging and rewarding experience, I set my sights on Slievemore, Achill's second-highest peak. This wasn't just a walk; it was an exhilarating climb that offered unparalleled views. The ascent is steep in parts, requiring a good level of fitness and sturdy footwear, but every step was worth the effort. As I climbed higher, the views expanded exponentially, revealing the patchwork of fields below, the vast expanse of the Atlantic, and the distant outline of the mainland.
Near the base of Slievemore, I discovered the eerie and fascinating Deserted Village, a cluster of stone cottages abandoned during the Great Famine. Walking among these ruins, imagining the lives of those who once lived there, added a poignant historical dimension to my hike. Continuing my ascent, I reached the summit feeling a profound sense of accomplishment. The panoramic views from the top were simply breathtaking – a 360-degree vista of the entire island, the surrounding ocean, and the distant Nephin Beg mountains.
It was a moment of pure awe, standing atop the world, with the wind as my only companion. I took my time descending, savouring every last view, feeling truly connected to the raw spirit of Achill.
Minaun Cliffs: Dramatic Coastal Views
Another unforgettable walk led me to the Minaun Cliffs, which plunge dramatically into the Atlantic Ocean. This walk offered a different kind of challenge and beauty compared to the mountain climb. I started from near the village of Keel and followed a path that hugged the coastline, gradually ascending to the clifftops. The sheer scale of the cliffs is awe-inspiring, and the roar of the waves crashing against their base is a powerful reminder of nature's force.
I trod carefully along the cliff edge, mindful of the sheer drop, but the views were simply incredible. On a clear day, I could see for miles along the rugged coastline, with seabirds soaring overhead and the distant outline of Clare Island. The vibrant colours of the sea, from deep blues to frothy whites, contrasted beautifully with the greens and browns of the clifftop vegetation.
It was a walk that truly made me feel small in the face of such grandeur, a humbling and deeply moving experience. There are several viewpoints along the way, perfect for pausing to take photographs and simply soak in the dramatic scenery.
The Atlantic Drive: Scenic Strolls and Panoramic Vistas
While largely a driving route, I found several sections of the Atlantic Drive perfect for short, scenic walks. This circular route takes you around the southern and western edges of the island, offering continuous breathtaking views. I often pulled over at designated viewpoints and explored the immediate surroundings on foot. One of my favourite stops was at the viewpoint overlooking the iconic Croaghaun cliffs, Ireland's highest sea cliffs.
While the full ascent to Croaghaun requires serious hiking, the views from the Atlantic Drive are magnificent, allowing me to appreciate their immense scale. Another highlight was a short walk along the old coastguard path near Dooega, offering tranquil views over the bay. The beauty of the Atlantic Drive is its flexibility; I could choose to drive for a bit, then pull over for a short ramble, enjoying the constantly changing perspectives of the island's dramatic coastline.
It's an ideal way to get a comprehensive overview of Achill's rugged beauty, even if I wasn't undertaking a full-day hike.
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Finding My Comfort: Where I Stayed on Achill
One of the most important aspects of any trip for me is finding the right place to unwind after a day of exploration. Achill offers a charming mix of accommodations, from quaint B&Bs to self-catering cottages, catering to different preferences and budgets. I tried a few different options during my stay, each offering a unique experience.
Guesthouses and B&Bs: Warm Island Hospitality
I found that staying in a guesthouse or B&B was a wonderful way to experience the renowned Irish hospitality. My first night, I opted for a charming guesthouse near Achill Sound. The host was incredibly welcoming, full of local tips and stories, and the breakfast, featuring freshly baked soda bread and locally sourced produce, was a hearty start to each day.
My room was comfortable and clean, with a small window offering views of the surrounding countryside. What I loved most was the personal touch; the hosts were genuinely interested in my day's adventures and offered advice on the best routes and hidden gems. It felt like a home away from home, a cosy retreat after being buffeted by the Atlantic winds.
These smaller establishments often provide a great sense of community, allowing for interactions with other travellers and a deeper immersion into the local culture. I particularly enjoyed the quiet evenings, often spent reading in a communal lounge or chatting with fellow guests.
Self-Catering Cottages: Freedom and Flexibility
For a longer stay, or when travelling with family or friends, I believe a self-catering cottage is an excellent choice on Achill. I spent a few nights in a beautiful stone cottage overlooking Keel Bay, and it offered an unparalleled sense of freedom and independence. Having my own kitchen allowed me to prepare meals using fresh local ingredients, which I sourced from the small shops and markets on the island.
After a long day of hiking, there was nothing better than returning to my own space, lighting a fire, and simply relaxing in privacy. The views from the cottage were spectacular, and I enjoyed many evenings sitting on the patio, watching the sunset over the Atlantic. Many cottages on Achill are traditional in style but come equipped with all modern conveniences, offering the best of both worlds.
It allowed me to set my own pace, wake up when I wanted, and truly immerse myself in the island's rhythm without any external schedules. The sense of having my own little piece of Achill, even for a short while, was truly special.
Hotels: Comfort and Amenities
While Achill isn't known for large, impersonal hotels, there are a few excellent hotel options that provide a higher level of amenities and services. I spent a night in a small hotel in the village of Keel, which was incredibly convenient for accessing the beach and local eateries. My room was spacious and well-appointed, and the hotel restaurant served delicious seafood, a perfect treat after a day of exploring.
Hotels often offer facilities like on-site bars, sometimes even swimming pools or spa services, which can be a welcome luxury, especially during inclement weather. For those who prefer the convenience of having everything under one roof, a hotel offers a comfortable and reliable base from which to explore the island. The staff were professional and attentive, always ready to assist with information about local attractions or onward travel.
I found it a good balance between comfort and accessibility, especially in a central location.
Camping and Glamping: Connecting with Nature
For the truly adventurous or those on a tighter budget, camping and glamping sites are dotted around Achill, offering a chance to truly connect with nature. While I didn't personally camp on this trip, I saw several well-maintained campsites, particularly around Keel, offering stunning views and basic facilities. Waking up to the sound of the waves and the fresh sea air would undoubtedly be an incredible experience.
There are also a few glamping options emerging, providing a more luxurious camping experience with pre-erected tents or yurts, often with beds and electricity. This is certainly an option I would consider for a future visit, as it allows for an even deeper immersion into Achill's natural environment. The ability to sleep under the vast Achill sky, away from artificial lights, would be a magical experience, offering unparalleled stargazing opportunities.
If you're planning a trip to Achill Island, you might also find interest in exploring the stunning landscapes and rich history of the surrounding area. A great resource for this is an article that delves into the various attractions and activities available in the region. You can read more about it in this insightful piece on Enda's Story, which highlights not only the beautiful beaches and scenic walks but also offers recommendations on where to stay during your visit.
Practicalities for My Achill Adventure
As I planned my trip, I realised that a little preparation goes a long way when visiting an island like Achill. Its wild nature is part of its charm, but it also means being mindful of a few practical considerations.
Getting There and Getting Around
Reaching Achill Island is straightforward. I drove, which I highly recommend for the flexibility it offers in exploring the island. The Michael Davitt Bridge, connecting the island to the mainland at Achill Sound, makes access very easy. Once on the island, having a car was invaluable. Public transport is limited, and while there are some local bus services, they might not reach all the more remote beauty spots or operate with high frequency.
The roads, particularly in the western parts of the island, can be narrow and winding, so driving carefully and being aware of sheep on the roads is essential. For those without a car, hiring bicycles is a fantastic option, especially for exploring the Greenway and the villages. I found that walking was the best way to truly immerse myself in the landscape, but a car was necessary to get to the starting points of many of the longer trails.
Weather and Packing Essentials
The weather on Achill, like much of the west of Ireland, can be unpredictable and change rapidly. I experienced sunshine, rain, and strong winds, sometimes all in the same day! Therefore, packing layers was crucial. I always had a waterproof and windproof jacket with me, even on seemingly sunny mornings. Sturdy, waterproof hiking boots were absolutely essential for tackling the often boggy or rocky trails.
Sunscreen and a hat are also important, even on cloudy days, as the UV rays can still be strong. I also carried a small backpack with water, snacks, and a map or GPS device, especially for longer walks where mobile signal might be intermittent. A camera is a must – the landscapes are truly breathtaking and constantly offer incredible photographic opportunities.
Food and Drink on the Island
I was pleasantly surprised by the quality and variety of food available on Achill. Seafood, as expected, was a highlight. I enjoyed fresh fish and chips in a local pub, and a delicious seafood chowder overlooking the bay. There are several charming cafes, particularly in Keel and Achill Sound, offering coffee, sandwiches, and homemade treats. For those self-catering, there are a few grocery stores, mainly in Achill Sound and Keel, where I could stock up on essentials.
Pubs are an integral part of the Irish experience, and I spent a few evenings enjoying a pint of Guinness and listening to traditional music in a welcoming local pub. It was a wonderful way to unwind and soak in the local atmosphere. I found that supporting local businesses on the island was easy and rewarding, with friendly service and quality offerings.
Respecting the Environment and Local Culture
Achill Island is a place of immense natural beauty, and I felt a strong responsibility to help preserve it. I adhered to the Leave No Trace principles, ensuring I took all my rubbish with me and stayed on marked paths to protect sensitive ecosystems. The island also has a rich cultural heritage, and I found the locals to be incredibly friendly and welcoming.
) went a long way. Learning a little about the island's history, from the Deserted Village to its literary connections, enriched my experience significantly. It’s a community that relies on tourism, and showing respect for their way of life and their environment felt like an important part of my journey. The wildness of Achill is its greatest asset, and ensuring its preservation for future generations is paramount.
My Lasting Impressions of Achill Island
As I drove back across the Michael Davitt Bridge, leaving Achill Island behind, I felt a familiar pang of sadness that always accompanies the end of a truly special trip. However, this sadness was quickly overshadowed by a deep sense of gratitude and a mind brimming with vivid memories. Achill isn't just a destination; it's an experience, a journey into the wild heart of Ireland. I carry with me the exhilaration of standing atop Slievemore, the refreshing chill of Keem Bay's turquoise waters, the rhythmic crash of waves against the Minaun Cliffs, and the quiet contentment of a pub pint after a long day of walking.
The island had worked its magic on me. Its untamed landscapes, its rugged beauty, and its profound sense of history left an indelible mark. I arrived seeking solace and adventure, and Achill delivered both in spades. The wind-swept beaches offered moments of pure tranquility, the challenging walks pushed my physical limits and rewarded me with unparalleled vistas, and the warm hospitality of the locals made me feel truly welcome.
It’s a place where the air feels cleaner, the colours seem more vibrant, and the sense of peace is palpable. I will undoubtedly return to Achill Island, for there are still more paths to explore, more waves to watch, and more stories to discover within its captivating shores. It has earned a permanent place in my travel memories as a true gem of the Wild Atlantic Way.
Related reading: Mythical Places in the West of Ireland: Where Legends Live · Wild Swimming Spots in Mayo and Galway
Enda Storrie is a writer and the creator of Story Bible, the planning journal and app for writers, and Chain Story Online, a free collaborative storytelling platform.
